Candlelight flickers across the white tablecloths, funky jazz seeps from the overhead speakers, and flames dance hypnotically within the nearby space-heating units. The kitchen’s just re-opened for the night following the afternoon siesta, and I’m the first patron of the evening. I’ve chosen to dine at a restaurant call Terrone. It’s not right on the main cafe-lined corridor, which to me is appealing, and from the outside, looks like the type of establishment that cares about the quality of its food and dining experience.
Every now and then, I enjoy dining alone, and trying to really pay close attention to as many elements of the experience that I can. Why is this just an every now and then?
As Marsaxlokk is a quaint fishing village on the south coast of Malta, seafood is on my mind. The tasting menu will afford the most variety, so it’s an easy choice.
Fresh baked bread, olive oil, sea salt, and cracked pepper are set in front of me. I’ve been avoiding bread recently, but tonight will give it a try. The olive oil is grassy and fresh, and has a bit of a bite to it. Wonderful.
A lone shucked oyster harvested locally is the first course of the night. Fresh, light, with a soft consistency. A dash of lemon. It hadn’t crossed my mind before, but oyster has a similar consistency to brain. Calf, sheep, and goat are the only ones I’ve tried, but the texture is similar. This particular oyster could have benefited from a touch of spice. I hadn’t noticed the bottle of tabasco sitting across the table until it was too late.
A pause in the courses. There’s an inclination to check my phone. Intentional presence of being, free from distraction, is a constant practice. When there’s an option to fill the space with distraction, the mind might immediately jump to it. Succumbing would prevent me from noticing the happy middle-aged couple strolling hand in hand, enjoying the evening, or the exotic vehicle slowly driving by, an exquisite piece of machinery. The stars are slowly appearing in the sky as we transition from day to night.
Tuna tartare. The next course. The pine nuts, meticulously placed greens, and vibrant oil stand out most. I’ll skip the lightly toasted accompanying bread. Well, maybe just a bite. The fish is exceptionally fresh, and contains the perfect amount of salt. Temperature is somewhere between room and lightly refrigerated. It’s a great tartare, one of the better I’ve tasted, but I’m struggling to find the words how to describe it further. A mix of opaque, dark ruby colored fish, pine nuts, and delicate greens.
The service has been excellent so far. Pleasant, well-informed, with dishes appropriately spaced, and lots of friendly smiles. Half the outdoor tables are filled at this point. The British couple next to me got a complimentary round and a warm welcome from the hostess. Are they regulars? A bit of casual conversation reveals they’re just visiting, but Malta is a frequent destination, a sunny respite to escape the dreary, British winters, as there’s a low-cost flight connection.
The chargrilled octopus arrives. It’s on a bed of some couscous-like grain. Hints of carrot, lemon, and herbs. The soft, meaty, flavorful octopus is top notch. Do most octopi need to be tenderized? I haven’t yet cooked one, a project for another day. The visual presentation of this dish wasn’t my favorite, and it caused me to feel lower expectations for the dish. In turn, I was pleasantly surprised. Outstanding flavor.
Tagliolini. Rich. Tomato, a hint of garlic, and capers. The capers add a lovely dynamic. A salty, sour counterbalance to the delicate pasta and tomato broth. Capers always remind my of my grandmother. “Grammy.”
Thirteen day aged red snapper, on a bed of brussels sprouts is the next course. There’s a satisfying crunch on the exterior, with a moist and delicate interior. it’s not overly cooked, but toward that end of the spectrum. Is it perfect, or overdone? What does the aging process do to a consistency of a fish? The meat is firm. The parsnip mash really pulls the dish together. The fish, for my tastes, would benefit from a touch more moisture. The brussels sprouts have a bit of a rubbery texture to them. Not my favorite, and it takes away from the overall experience of the dish. The parsnip is the saving grace.
Lemon tart. Simply divine. A favorite, and this is one of the best i’ve had. It pairs well with the creamy vanilla ice cream. The lemon tart steals the show. A perfect ending to the meal.
If you happen to find yourself in search of a seafood dinner in Marsaxlokk, Malta, I encourage you to give Terrone a try.